Clockwise from top left: Les Benjamins, Represent, Angelos Frentzos, Hugo Costa, This Is Not Clothing, Spalwart. Centre: Northskull.
With its roots firmly planted hip hop and rap culture, a new band of designers are taking looks previously associated with shady neighbourhood characters and blue-collar workers to the high-street with the implementation of reworked cuts, luxury textiles, intelligent details and artistic prints.Hoods, bomber jackets, over-sized t-shirts and drop crotch pants all feature prominently in these designers’ collections. The point of difference being the fabric quality, polished finishes and an attention to detail usually reserved for haute couture.
Styled with caps, balaclavas, socks-and-sneakers and backpacks give these looks contextual emotion and representation. Religious symbols, traditional tribal motifs and national emblems pay homage to heritage, while use of graffiti art gives nod to the underground world in which this culture evolved. The development of collections on layering, high necklines, long silhouettes and large pockets give the immediate impression that the looks are made to be worn on the street - these armour-like details being protective coverings to combat the elements literally and metaphorically. Emphasis on comfortability, layers and modern tailoring don’t detract from personal style as consumers mature and look to bring to their wardrobe a more sophisticated touch found in the luxurious elements that form the foundation of these brands.
In this new world of influential community engagement, collaborations and associations are just as important as the products that come as a result of these relationships. It benefits two-fold: designers, by pairing up with prominent stores and respected artists and musicians, can offer a point of difference to their lines, collections and repertoire, and these artists have a unique creative outlet perhaps not at their disposal before. For each, it presents new audiences to whom they can communicate their philosophy and for the consumer it offers exclusivity and desirability, fast becoming rare in a homogenising world.
As this style so fluidly transverses between traditional tailoring to sportswear, and between haute couture to highly-accessible street labels, it’s easy to see how seamlessly this style has a growing position in stores worldwide. Championed by the buyers of concept stores such as Storm in Copenhagen (Filling Pieces) and Très Bien (Barena) in Malmo as well as famous high-street stores such as Harrods, (Simeon Farrar), Harvey Nichols (Adyn) and Selfridges (Angelo Frentzos), ‘street luxe’ is emerging as the trend stepping up for Fall/ Winter and well into Spring/ Summer.
Paving the way for ‘street luxe’ style to take further prominence in the mainstream men’s fashion market, Tranoï has welcomed a dozen designers who represent and encompass this culture at TranoÏ Homme Fall Winter 2015/16. From ready-to-wear, to shoes and bags, to even home products, this ‘street luxe’ style is a trend without previous focus at Tranoï, but one that can no longer go without representation. We are pleased to welcome the designers above to the Palais de la Bourse and excited to present them in January.