SAVOIR FAIRE

see

From top to bottom, left to right; 00:00:MM, Geraldine Carfield Jewellery, Issac Reina, Alma Libre, O Fee, Agnelle, Natacha & Vanessa, Balensi Paris, Sprung Freres Collection Plume, VSP, Anikalenaskärström.



Covering leather, handbags, jewellery, ready-to-wear and accessories, a handful of designers will cross the pond to present their Fall/ Winter 2015-16 collections to the US market at Tranoï New York next week. These designers represent all genres in womens’ wear, from streetwear to avant-garde outerwear, skins to fine, precious jewellery to bring a ‘French Touche’ to the 80 designers from 20 countries presenting at the Tunnel.

The 00:00:MM Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection has been inspired by how day exists in the night. How our decisions represent repercussions and how the incessant existence of technology has resulted in the progression of hacking to suit our creative urges. Digital vs. analogue, and vice versa. 

Daytime is reflected in the garments through innovative phosphorescent and reflective treatments on the printed graphics and embroideries, which react to light and can only exist in the dark. These interact with technology to create unique experiences with every wear.

GERALDINE CARFIELD creates her eponymous jewellery collection in Paris, in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Her passion for elegant jewellery inspired her to create a first jewellery collection centred around baroque pearls on an original style of chain, silk rope. Quickly, her inspirations were oriented towards the development of new lines and in larger volumes found on cuffs, mid-finger rings, and other necklaces.

Arriving from Barcelona, ISAAC REINA started out in the industry working for Hermès in 1998 as the design assistant of Véronique Nichanian for the men’s collection. He later created his eponymous accessories brand in 2006 and opened his Paris boutique located in the Marais area, which almost ten years later is still going strong. Talented and discrete, Paris-based designer, Isaac Reina has long been recognised by key figures of the fashion wold for his stylish leather handbags for men and women. His designs are simple yet boast quality material and handcrafted manufacturing.

ALMA LIBRE is the creation of Lois Swandale and Kristopher Millar, two English designers working between Italy and the UK. They specialise in knitwear and experiment in visual arts with costume design. Their creations can be described as merging the artisanal method of tailoring with modern technology. The Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection to be presented at Tranoï Femme will feature three categories; Fusion Underglass is a fusion between knitwear and fabrics in contrasting white & black/ black & white, Needling League uses very fine yarns such as cashmere, mohair and silk, and Armour is drop knitwear made with yarn, then put in boiling water to make a compact ‘armour’ for the body.

Ofée is a jewellery brand created in 2006. The OFEE mission is to make an elusive dream a reality that is within reach. All Ofée creations are imagined in their atelier, just near Place Vendôme in Paris. The creations Ofée are simple, yet luxurious, designed for women on the move and are inspired by the magic of Paris, its streets and the beauty of its lights. For 2015, Ofée is working on a new and exclusive concept: the Earring Bar; Ofée proposes more than 50 models of earrings and ear jewels sold as a single piece. Ofée invites women to create their own pair with her mood and desire.

In 1937, in Saint-Junien, Limousin, Joseph Pourrichou, - great grandfather of Sophie Grégoire who is currently at the helm – founded a glove-making workshop for his son Lucien. Today, AGNELLE, still a family company, continues to advocate delicate work of glove-making with infinite precision, its slowness being a sign of unwavering quality. Agnelle remains the secret accomplice of the biggest Fashion brands: Givenchy, Balenciaga, Dior, Balmain, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Ralph Lauren, Rodarte, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, Dunhill, Bally, Lacoste, and creates innovative collections which intersects of know-how and traditional handicraft with the contemporary. 

NATACHA & VANESSA are two sisters who were born in Marseille in the South of France. Immersed in an artistic environment since they were children, they are both passionate about fashion. The design of the two artists specialises in noble and durable skin material. Leather, suede and sheepskin come together harmoniously in the form of coats, dresses and trousers. A touch of fur also adds class and authenticity to garments. The brand updates with graciousness such a timeless material with style. For the Autumn-Winter 2015 collection, jackets and parkas with large and gentle fur collars bring softness to winter.

After working with couture designers (in leather good, shoes, fur...), José Balensi created his own luxury brand BALENSI PARIS 22 years ago, and receives success. He managed to breathe a new dimension to lace, a timeless fabric. Every new season, he creates new dresses, also keeping the best sellers one but adding incredible new handmade colours. For the Fall/ Winter 2015-16 collection to be presented at Tranoï New York, Balensi will introduce the Calais lace that the brand is known for in a new way, new lengths for the dresses, and winter colours that will make the Balensi woman more elegant than ever.

For its fifth collection, SPRUNG FRERES COLLECTION PLUME presents a line of jackets and coats with refreshing notes, inspired by ‘après-ski’-style of the 70s; zipped jackets, bombers, cozy shawl collars, and hoodies available in mixtures of materials such as bold mink and lambskin, rabbit print and fox patches. Colour palette of off-white, pastels, and cool shades are juxtaposed with graphic lines and transform from one material to another in delicate diamonds, tone on tone.

Fashion designer Kadri Soygul started working for the fashion leather industry in 1987 after his graduation from Bosphorus University at Istanbul. Over the years, he has collaborated with several designers which have led him, step by step, to create his luxury brand VSP. Soygül and his team are greatly inspired by art crafted progressive techniques. They produce tactile collections which highlight the link between contemporary and innovative luxury. The brand offers something for everyone with different sub-lines: the VSP Mainline fashion collection, the youthful PEACE by VSP label and VSP Chalayan; an ongoing seasonal collaboration with contemporary designer, Hussein Chalayan. Each collection boasts innovative designs and mix quality leather and shearling with weave and knit to create contemporary forms.

Anika Skärström, a Swedish designer living in Paris, has been designing for independent women for the past fifteen seasons. She defines today’s determined and metropolitan women in search of a feeling of freedom. Many of her collections are inspired by her heroines, such as Colette, a French writer in the 1920s, Nancy Cunard an eccentric English editor living in Paris in the 1930s or Annie Hall, a Woody Allen character. A touch of masculinity is added to many of her ANiKALENASKÄRSTRÖM pieces to emphasise her ‘ideal’ women – chic, independent, outgoing and in search of discovery and adventure. Portrayed through her clothes is a mix between women’s and men’s dress codes, creating a look of determination and autonomy.

— LLB